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| | | "Rhino SIghting In North Luangwa by John Coppinger"
29 August 2010 00:00 | | | read more... |
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 | Game viewing Diary | |
| Date: | 03 October 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 10 September
On the morning walk upstream, we came across Cookson’s wildebeest, zebra and elephants. We also found a single Lappet-faced vulture still present at the buffalo kill. Crocodile tracks and porcupine tracks were leading to the carcass which indicated that there must have been some unusual guests at the buffalo buffet!
Afternoon drive to the Luangwa River where we found big numbers of hippos.
11 September
Morning drive to Delia lagoon. On the way we encountered Kudus, Zebra and elephants and then also had beautiful views of three different groups of elephants coming to drink at the lagoon. On the way back, whilst crossing the river in front of camp a yellow billed kite snatched a long tailed starling while it was bathing in the river.
During the afternoon walk we viewed zebra coming to drink at the lagoon behind camp. One of the mares had a terrible gash across her back and an open wound across her buttocks that must have been a failed lion attack.
12 September
A morning walk upstream produced different raptors. First a Walberg’s eagle, and then three giant eagle owls flying out of a Muchenga tree.
The female hyena that has been spotted around the same area in the past with swollen teats, was seen taking some of the remains of the buffalo carcass into the bush where we assume she must have a den with young cubs. A mature Lappet-faced vulture was also present.
13 September
Am walk down to the Mwaleshi/Luangwa confluence. An injured hippo was spotted by Special coming out of the Mwaleshi. On the way we came across three lions lying on the opposite bank checking us out. They consisted of two males and a young lioness. We also heard European bee eaters which were the first of the season for me.
In the afternoon we took a drive out to Fish eagle lagoon where we found many barbell fish swimming in liquid mud, just awaiting their death, either swift by beak and talon, or long and suffocating in mud by the gallon.
14 September
Lappet-faced vulture observed at buffalo kill during the morning walk. The four male kudus that we came across on previous occasions appeared out of the bush again to come and drink from the new oxbow lagoon on the Mwaleshi River.
Pm walk to lagoon behind camp where we observed the first Blue cheeked bee eaters of the season. During sundowners back at camp, the resident elephant bull decided to join and gave us a good view of his bulk while standing next to the unoccupied game drive vehicle.
15 September
During the drive out to the falls, a big male leopard dashed out of the long grass and ran in the road in front of the vehicle for a couple of metres before it leapt back into the grass and as only leopard can do, melted away from sight…We also saw the first baby warthogs of the season during the drive.
Plum coloured starlings, racket tailed rollers and trumpeter hornbills were seen on the walk to the falls that kept the bird tally going.
| | | | | Date: | 02 October 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Gerard Fagan | | Outing: | PM Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | We started this afternoons drive with a little bumble down Riverside and it was a good start to a great evening. There was plenty of plains game around incl. some great Zebra and kudu sightings and the ever present Buffalo herds we see this time of year. Of course the eles made many appearances as well and we all had great fun photographing them as the sun slowly sank to the escarpment. After sundowners we headed off to the salt pan in search of lions and we were not dissapointed. We came across the Salt Pan pride half way up to the spring and spent over an hour watching and photographing the cubs and adults. Eventually we decided to let them go as we headed off to camp for another fantastic dinner. | | | | | Date: | 01 October 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Stephen Banda | | Outing: | Chikoko Walking Trail | | Camp: | Chikoko Walking Trails | | Blog: | Our walk started on 27-09-07 from Tafika at 0645 hours. Few minutes after crossing we saw a herd of Elephants feeding on the tamarind fruits together with warthogs. To the other side were Impalas, waterbucks and Zebras also grazing. We walked further on and saw a small herd of male Buffalos (Kakuli) old bulls eating the sausage flowers. In the afternoon walking along the Chikoko river we saw kudus, one bull elephant, puku and Impalas together. Hyena was seen by Isaac the scout cooling in the wet pat in the river bed. As we were walking to the river crossing the starlings were making lots of noise. We looked and the Pel’s fishing owl flew away from the tree nearby and landed in the next tree. Then we left for the crossing to meet other guests and walked back to camp. On our second day we had a long walk to a lagoon where we saw a hyena sleeping in the shade. We tiptoed towards it but he heard us and ran a way. Eland were also seen in the distance with Zebras, Giraffes, Puku, Impalas and Baboons. The fish eagles, Saddle billed storks, African jacanas, sacred ibis, marabou storks fling above us looking into the lagoon. On our way to camp only buffalos. On 29 September we set off for Crocodile camp and we didn’t see much .At Crocodile we saw a hyena den and there was one puppy sleeping close to entrance. He quickly ran into the hole. The next morning we had to go to the crossing to drop off 4 guests and picked up Janet to join us for one day. Later there was a herd of Elephants moving towards us. They turned away from us because the wind blew to them. That afternoon I decided to go back to the den but the puppies were not seen so instead walked towards the river where the Buffalos were drinking. It was a big herd which I thought about 1000.This morning walking back to Tafika had a stop at the lagoon and Hippos were fighting as we had our tea break. After that we crossed the river and back to Tafika. | | | | | Date: | 30 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | The last drive for the folks wanting Lions.
Rain was in the air, a couple of spots fall as we left Tafika but after that just the nice cool wind blowing in our faces.
So off to the Salt Pan where the Pride with the eleven cubs are. There were not so many Crowned Cranes today, very quiet all the way up to the Pan. We stopped for sundowners next to Chichele stream and watched the sun disappear behind the escarpment.
Greg was at the Pan also in search of Lion, so decided to first have a look at Conkonko lagoon, and come back when he had gone. It paid off, as we tuned to come back to the pan a Leopard walked out of the bush straight towards the car. She walked past to the lagoon, looking around nervously, the wind I think was throwing scents all over the place and she was being careful. She eventually saw some Impala and disappear into the bush to go hunt.
Driving back to the Pan, right where Greg had stopped for his sundowners was a Serval, sitting in the middle of the green Sedge grass posing.
The rest of the night was fairly quiet until we got close to camp, several Grysbok near Chikwinda gate and Elephants feeding on fallen fruit from the Fig trees, blocked the road for a few minutes.
No Lion, they will just have to come back again. | | | | | Date: | 29 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | We were asked to find Lion last night, failed unfortunately, but did find Porcupine and a Leopard with a Puku kill up in a tree. Seven Genets, six Civets and Thick tailed Bush baby. | | | | | Date: | 29 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Rory McDougall | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | A drive and short walk combination was the order of the day. We drove into the Nsefu sector and decided on a walk along the Masauka river down to the Luangwa and back. A beautiful cool morning for this time of the year with good light. A brilliant veiw of a Western Banded Snake Eagle greeted us as we came upon a Carmine colony on the main bank that has been inaccessable from the roads. We sat and photographed for a while. Hippo below were giving us a good interactive display as two bulls excluded from the main breeding herd tried to gain access to deeper water. We were able to watch as the dominant breeding male communicating underwater obviously, was able to keep them away. We moved away in order not to promote conflict and allow the bulls back into their deeper patch of the river.
We strolled on at a leasurly pace to another sector where we had previously seen a leopard on a favorite branch in a tree. Sadly she was not at home.
Tea was beckoning, and Brighton performed his magical fire lighting trick for a brew up.Suitably revived we continued through the dambos back to the vehicle.
A round about return drive gave good game veiwing and sightings of Zebra, Puku and Impala.
The birds were also great with a good sighting of two Lesser Striped Swallows along with a good combination of Luangwa specials keeping the clients entertained. A good morning was had by all. | | | | | Date: | 29 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Stephen Banda | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | Our drive started with a village tour. I met up with others who cylced to the school; spent a few minutes at the school and went to the village. After the school and village visit, we were joined by two new guests who arrived at our local airstrip. I drove past the scouts game Park gate into the Park and headed towards Banda's loop.
Only a few minutes after driving past the park boundary, we saw giraffe, zebra, elephants, puku, impala, bushbuck and baboons all in one area. "Magic" a comment from the guests. It was time to stop for a drink and I went nearer the river for sundowners. As we were finishing drinking the baboons started barking and we got into the car and drove to check. We did not see anything. Since there was still time I decided to go round a lagoon and came back to the same place. I was right because we saw a female leopard lying next to the road. After that we saw hyena, white-tailed mongoose, elephant shrew, genet and civet. Few more elephants on the way back to camp. | | | | | Date: | 28 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | The first part of the drive took us along riverside drive onto the link road to the open area where the Crowned Cranes are in the late afternoon. Driving slowly the Cranes flew up calling in front of us, several hundred spread out across the plain intermingled with Zebra and a small group of Elephant. Warthogs, tails in the air running off to safety.
We stopped for sundowners close to the Pan, all seemed very quiet, mostly Impala feeding quietly by the stream.
Another vehicle had been at the Pan before us having dinner and had left their camp fires burning, so we spent some time putting those out. Had a quick look for the Serval, but no luck. Continued on down Chichele stream, Impala and more Impala. Then out of the blue this lone figure sitting looking toward a group of Impala. A young female Leopard.
Leopards in this area are normally very shy so we stayed a reasonable distance from her, she still ran across the road towards the bush, but stopped and sat down at the edge of the bush to look at us. We moved onto a better position to see her. She looked inquisitive and started to move toward us, sniffing the air and trying to see what this big noisy thing with bright eyes was. She eventually stopped 30m from us, lay down and started to groom herself. We watched for 10 mins and left her in peace. | | | | | Date: | 28 September 2007 12:00 | | Guide: | Gerard Fagan | | Outing: | Chikoko Walking Trail | | Camp: | Chikoko Walking Trails | | Blog: | I've been away this time for 3 days at our bushcamps and it's been a wonderful time for all. Although no cats this time we did have some great encounters with lots of other game incl. a large heard of buffalo that we came across a few times. The Giraffe and Elephants both came wondering passed Crocodile camp one day and the entertaining Warthogs are always around. We saw some fantastic birds and my first sighting of a Grey-rumped Swallow in the Valley. The Steppe Eagles and the Whalberg's Eagles are back from their winter haunts and it's great watching the action filled skies at the moment. There's always something around! | | | | | Date: | 28 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Rory McDougall | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | On a morning walk from Tafika to Kapani and Chankanga Lagoons we started with three "Grumpy Old Men" going down to the boats. These were three Kakuli Buffalo that were enjoying the Tafika waterhole. Crossing, we found two Pel's fishing Owls. A good veiw from a Capparus shrouded tree on the Banks of the Luangwa, with a group of Banded Mongoose playing below. Elephant, Buffalo and antelope were very happy guzzeling all the freshly fallen Sausage tree flowers and made a few devetions necesarry. An elephant Bull entertained us with a mud bath at tea time anf we also saw our first baby warthogs comming down with mum to the water. Two at Kapani and three at Chankanga. The Lagoons were full of waders and egyptian geese. Two adult Black winged Stilt's probed the shallows close to the tea spot.
There was a recent lion kill in the area and all the vultures and Marabou Storks were washing themselves at a small pool in the river bed, but sadly the lions had departed, although had been spotted the day before.
A good walk ending with an exciting river crossing alongside a pod of hippo in the Luangwa | | | | | Date: | 27 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 27 September
A morning outing to Mofwa lagoon, close to the Luangwa, had us walk through a beautiful glade of shady trees surrounded by fallen sausage tree flowers and the scent of Natal mahogany flowers. At the lagoon we found some hippos and crocodiles still occupying the fairly large lagoon. A group of elephants came to drink and we were also entertained by Jacanas darting after insects amongst the water plants in front of us.
In the afternoon we walked to Elephant lagoon, hoping that the lagoon will live up to its name sake, but once there, we found that the water had dried up already and an eerie silence had enveloped the surrounding bush.
28 September
A morning walk to Sassu lagoon where game was scarce at first as we walked through the dry back country, but were rewarded with big numbers of impala, Puku, Zebras and Cookson’s wildebeest as we approached the river. A group of hyenas were moving around on the opposite bank chasing each other and sniffing around. On closer inspection, two lionesses were spotted under a tree and we suspected that they must have made a kill in that vicinity and the Hyenas were picking up the scraps.
29 September
During the early morning walk up stream, some of the first animals that we encountered were some lionesses lying on the bank of the Mwaleshi staring at us. Because they had some cubs with them they did not stay around long and melted into the long grass when we tried to approach them. Close to the Matume tree, we stopped for tea where we watched some hyenas cooling down in the river. They were very relaxed with our presence and it was a wonderful scene of wildebeest and impala, grazing together with zebra in the back ground. The serenity was soon disturbed though as we could hear puku alarm calls and the hyenas had their ears pricked up. As we scanned along the river bank, barely fifty metres away from us, a male lion was strolling along in our direction, oblivious of our presence. As we were amongst some cover and down wind from him, he came within about 20 metres from us and as if he was paid to pose for a photograph, stood and gazed out over the plain and then went and lay down in the shade of an acacia tree. We were not sure if he was one of the two resident males as his mane was a little bare and he still had some pink on his nose. He gazed in our direction for a long while and then suddenly clicked that there were humans present and sped off at great haste.
30 September
Falls trip where we saw a good number of antelope on the way there including wildebeest and some beautiful male kudus.
1 October
A morning drive out to Kalli mulilo hot spring on the other side of the Luangwa made for an interesting change from the normal morning activity. During the drive there and back we spotted numerous groups of elephants and kudus. The hot spring was unfortunately not as spectacular as usual as the ground water level has prevented the springs from forming the clear boiling pots that we are used to and the water was quite diluted and not as hot as usual.
| | | | | Date: | 27 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 27 September
A morning outing to Mofwa lagoon, close to the Luangwa, had us walk through a beautiful glade of shady trees surrounded by fallen sausage tree flowers and the scent of Natal mahogany flowers. At the lagoon we found some hippos and crocodiles still occupying the fairly large lagoon. A group of elephants came to drink and we were also entertained by Jacanas darting after insects amongst the water plants in front of us.
In the afternoon we walked to Elephant lagoon, hoping that the lagoon will live up to its name sake, but once there, we found that the water had dried up already and an eerie silence had enveloped the surrounding bush.
28 September
A morning walk to Sassu lagoon where game was scarce at first as we walked through the dry back country, but were rewarded with big numbers of impala, Puku, Zebras and Cookson’s wildebeest as we approached the river. A group of hyenas were moving around on the opposite bank chasing each other and sniffing around. On closer inspection, two lionesses were spotted under a tree and we suspected that they must have made a kill in that vicinity and the Hyenas were picking up the scraps.
29 September
During the early morning walk up stream, some of the first animals that we encountered were some lionesses lying on the bank of the Mwaleshi staring at us. Because they had some cubs with them they did not stay around long and melted into the long grass when we tried to approach them. Close to the Matume tree, we stopped for tea where we watched some hyenas cooling down in the river. They were very relaxed with our presence and it was a wonderful scene of wildebeest and impala, grazing together with zebra in the back ground. The serenity was soon disturbed though as we could hear puku alarm calls and the hyenas had their ears pricked up. As we scanned along the river bank, barely fifty metres away from us, a male lion was strolling along in our direction, oblivious of our presence. As we were amongst some cover and down wind from him, he came within about 20 metres from us and as if he was paid to pose for a photograph, stood and gazed out over the plain and then went and lay down in the shade of an acacia tree. We were not sure if he was one of the two resident males as his mane was a little bare and he still had some pink on his nose. He gazed in our direction for a long while and then suddenly clicked that there were humans present and sped off at great haste.
30 September
Falls trip where we saw a good number of antelope on the way there including wildebeest and some beautiful male kudus.
1 October
A morning drive out to Kalli mulilo hot spring on the other side of the Luangwa made for an interesting change from the normal morning activity. During the drive there and back we spotted numerous groups of elephants and kudus. The hot spring was unfortunately not as spectacular as usual as the ground water level has prevented the springs from forming the clear boiling pots that we are used to and the water was quite diluted and not as hot as usual.
| | | | | Date: | 26 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | Rory McDougall | | Outing: | Morning Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | Being back at Tafika after a long break is too beautiful for words. The hot season is in full swing and our spring is in the air as the flowering trees in the bush give off their scent.
I arrived on the 16th from a long stint in Southern province, to guide and promote “Painting Safari’s” and the change from July is truly amazing in the vegetation. On Matanda Plain you can see for miles and the recent 3mm shower of unseasonal rain has cleared the smoke and haze and brought a flush of green to the normally scorched earth at this time of the year. The Wafwa on Riverside drive looks fit enough to host the Cricket World Cup!
I have decided to include a number of sightings from a number of different drives in this entry as time has overtaken me. On my first Night Drive we found a pair of lionesses not a hundred meters from where we stopped for sundowners. They were also enjoying the cool damp weather after the shower. They moved on upstream opposite Tafika where a pride of 13 lion had taken down a Buffalo on the opposite bank. I think the river is still too full and precarious for them to have crossed and they must have been from a different pride despite their interest.. Then the very next day we found a pair of mating lions who took up residence on riverside drive. The amorous couple were there for four days despite frequent visits from enquiring tourists and gave a wonderful show.
Leopard sightings from the camp have been numerous, and that evening we found one very accommodating female asleep in a tree enveloped in Wooly Caper Bush on the bank. A Bushbuck was barking below in the thicket and when we returned she had moved on and we only found a Baby Bushbuck. As we cleared this, we picked her up in the spot cleaning herself in the open after feasting on an impala still up in a small Sausage tree. She remained in the area for a few days and we were able to see again in the day in the same tree on a further two occasions.
As for Buffalo well what can I say ! At least 1500, coming off the Matanda Plain in full view after overnighting in the Chichele Stream wetland. We slowly followed the Herd for over half an hour. They allowed us within twenty meters of the last cows with calves as they ambled along with only minimal interest from the Herd Bulls. The photography was incredible as the dust rose above the herd. It was reminiscent of the Ila Tonga herding their cattle along the Kafue floodplain at a leisurely pace, except the herd stretched for as far as the eye could see to the tree line along Riverside drive.
Birding has been great. Paradise flycatcher in the morning on the Plain, with two separate sightings of 3 and 2 Steppe Eagles, the first of the Raptor Migrants sighted alongside Martial eagle and frequent Batleur and a “one off” immature Black Shouldered Kite. Western Banded Snake Eagle gave us a wonderful pose and African Goshhawk took a squirrel off the ground in front of us while painting with a group of clients in the Tafika” Hide”
The Hot spring exciting as ever with views of two pairs of Painted Snipe and a displaying Yellow Throated Longclaw. Numerous Hooded, White Headed and White Backed Vultures continue to do their dirty laundry in the spring alongside Fish Eagles. So far this week only one Pel’s Fishing Owl and Pearl Spotted, but plenty Giant, and Scops Owls.
The Carmine colonies are incredible; numerous and noisy challenging any photographer with frequent fly pasts. A lovely bit of news was one of the clients with pictures of a Greater Honey Guide entering a carmine burrow from the Kaingo Colony. Alongside pictures of baboon raiding nests and eating fledglings
The week has ended with two further sightings of Leopard, one with two cubs one of which was lost and we left Mum searching for it, and Lion with 11 cubs up on the Salt Pan.
Elephant continue to come into camp on a nightly basis to investigate the local fresh shoots available at the greengrocers and Hippo to chomp the lawn . Quality sightings aboun | | | | | Date: | 24 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | I’ve done three night drives in a row now to the Salt Pan, and all have been great drives. The first on the 21st we saw two Serval cats, one within 10 yrds of the car. He sat there for 15mins posing. We moved on to find another who wasn’t quite so relaxed. Left them behind at the Pan, moving down Chichele Stream, Amon was shining the light at one spot, both of us not able make out what was in front of us, it looked like a big fallen tree with short branches, then one branch moved, up sat a Lioness. Five Lionesses and eleven cubs all laying with one or two legs in the air. We both had a little giggle and moved closer. It was a hot evening, so there was very little movement from the Lion, they would roll over and put a different leg in the air. Eventually they did make a move, the females greeted each other, the cubs jumping and trying to play with the females as they walked past. To cap the evening off a Leopard walked past the car on our way back through the Mopane forest.
The second night we just found the Lions & cubs, the females moved off to go hunt leaving the cubs in our charge, we moved off into the bush with them. They found a fallen tree climbing up onto the branches, all trying to move along the same branch in different directions at the same time. As you can imagine chaos. They eventually settled down, laying in a tight bundle to wait for a call from their mothers.
The third night we had stopped to look at a Terrapin when we heard a Lion call, driving up Chichele Stream we came across a Male Lion walking toward the Pan, calling as he went. He was the same male who had been mating down on riverside four the past four days. We drove past up to the Pan, two Lionesses calling softly, obviously calling for the other females and the cubs. The male joined them as we were having sundowners, all started to call, the sound could be felt through the car. Great!!.
We left them to it and went in search of other things, not more than 200m a Serval, again very close to the car.
On all the drives we saw many other animals and birds, Crowned Cranes, Eagles, Saddle Billed Storks, Impala, Puku etc, but tend to forget about the other animals when the cats are about.
| | | | | Date: | 23 September 2007 12:00 | | Guide: | Gerard Fagan | | Outing: | Chikoko Walking Trail | | Camp: | Chikoko Walking Trails | | Blog: | Another wonderful 4 days walking at Chikoko and Crocodile camp have come to an end after some really memorable encounters. We managed to clock up 3 seperate lion encounters which was great and the last one a little adrenaline filled. We had just about finished our last walk at the crossing point when we heard a loud growl coming from a fallen tree in the river bed. We all assumed that it was a leopard as we had seen the large tracks just before. After backing out of the channel and onto the bank the large leopard turned out to be a young lion with a big voice. We chuckled at our mistake as he clambered up the bank on the other side and was then shortly followed by another. There were plenty birds around and I spotted my first Caspian Plovers and my best view of the African Golden Oriole to date. I also remember a memorable afternoon walk from Croc camp when we stood in one position near Big Lagoon and watched impala, puku, kudu, bushbuck, zebra, giraffe and elephant. Not bad for one vantage point! I look forward to getting out on foot again. | | | | | Date: | 23 September 2007 06:00 | | Guide: | Stephen Banda | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Chikoko Tree Camp | | Blog: | I just came out from my long walk and I was thinking to rest for few days, but at lunch time I learnt that I was doing another walk for 3 nights. Since I like the bush I was happy to go back .This time I had four guests to take the next morning, which I did .After crossing the river the giraffe were standing not far from where we stood looking at them. Warthogs were seen in the distance digging for roots .As we went on we stopped on droppings and trees .At the lagoon near camp hyena was in the water cooling herself because she looked to be pregnant. In the afternoon elephants went to the lagoon and we went to see them having mud bath. Only one night at Crocodile camp then we moved to Chikoko camp. On the way I spotted a leopard which had an impala in the tree, two hyenas on the ground waiting for the impala to drop down. On 24-09-07 at Chikoko was lots of game coming to drink. We missed the roan antelope few minutes before we arrived. I again stayed at Chikoko for one night for Greg was coming to take over from me .Thanks Greg. | | | | | Date: | 22 September 2007 05:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 22 September
A marathon game drive of 213 kilometres and 14 hours produced the following animals:
Impala, puku, kudu, Cookson’s wildebeest, waterbuck, grey duiker, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, Sharpe’s grysbok and bush buck. Various Miombo bird species were also heard, but identification was restricted due to a time constraint and thick cover.
23 September
A morning walk from the airstrip soon had us spot a group of ten wildebeest that gave us a good view of their beautiful apricot coloured rumps and shoulders and their magnificent, jet black manes flowing down their brindled flanks.
As we approached the river, we decided to have tea in the shade of a winter thorn tree next to the river. But as we got closer, a tawny head with amber eyes appeared out of the grass, 15 metres away to where we were heading. A whole pride of lions were having their siesta under this tree. We stopped to watch them and soon realised that there were also cubs even closer to us who were now alerted to our scent carried on the wind, but did not know in which direction to flee. As Murphy’s Law would have it, they came running straight at us. We clapped and shouted to make them aware of us, but that just disorientated them more and sparked the adults under the tree into life. They came charging and roaring at us and luckily veered off at the last second with the cubs in tow. Amazingly our group had moved as one man behind a small scraggy bush, but the scout had stood his ground and chased them off with waving his arms.
24 September
In the afternoon we walked to the croc pool upstream on the Mwaleshi River. Once there the resident hippo also put in an appearance and would surface between every five and seven minutes to take a breath. We know this as we timed him to prove what the guide books say.
25 September
A walk to the confluence of Mwaleshi- and Luangwa Rivers had us see the first Feretia flowers of the season. Beautiful, scented pink flowers covering the whole bush make it a welcome spectacle in the dry season. We also saw an injured buffalo in very bad condition who was being eyed by two hyena.
In the afternoon we took a drive out to The leopard tree where we saw numerous groups of elephant and Cookson’s wildebeest on the plain below joined by a group of buffalo as we were enjoying our sundowners.
26 September
On the morning walk we returned to the lagoon behind camp to wait for something to come and drink while we did some painting, but were only rewarded by some warthog mud bathing which made for a difficult subject as they would not stand still for long. We also had a beautiful view of Lillian’s lovebirds coming for a drink quite close to where we were sitting.
In the evening we went to Tuwidi lagoon where we found a group of Cookson’s wildebeest and Impala drinking from the shrinking water. A oppertunistic crocodile also snapped at some doves who were perching on the Nile cabbage to have a drink.
| | | | | Date: | 21 September 2007 06:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | Isaac Banda ( NP Scout) and I talked about where we should walk this morning, decided on Chankanga channel. Across the river, past the hippo pod in our little green canoes. Must take a photo of the hippos one day from the canoe, that’s if I can get someone else to paddle.
The Hippos just lay there, heads on each others back. The occasional youngster will move off the sand bank and slip into the water creating a little huffing and puffing from everyone else.
Half and hour into the walk we could see Vultures in the trees ahead, walking quietly toward them, hoping for that Lion kill with the Lion still there, we came into the clearing, nothing, just the Vultures and Marabou storks in the trees. Isaac & I scouted around for bit looking for tracks. Isaac called that he had found fresh Lion tracks in the channel moving toward water. Following on top of the bank, the tracks spilt, discussing which way we should go, suddenly there was this low growl coming from 20m in front of us. Coming up from out of the channel the whole pride, cubs and all. One female crouched down looking at us from under a Capparis bush, standing guard while the rest moved away. They only moved 100m away and sat down to watch us as we continued our walk along the Channel.
Eight female Kudu on one side 10-12 Elephant on the other, crossing the Wafwa, heading for the same lagoon we were. Marabou & Yellow billed storks, all standing around waiting for the fishing party to start. | | | | | Date: | 20 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | Last night’s drive was straight down to the Wafwa to try and find the Leopard on the kill we had seen in the morning. Driving past Chipala lagoon, Mark said is that Impala calling, we stopped, and sure enough we could hear alarm calls behind Chipala. Using and an old road we went to investigate. A Leopard walking away from us, we followed at a distance through the thickets. A Puku called close to us looking to our left, there, one small Leopard cub, walking towards a thick bush, on the other side was Mum, its sibling suckling. We stayed with them until sunset, watching them climb trees, play, feed, sleep, feed again, Mum calling to them the whole time.
We stopped for sundowners at the Wafwa then drove to see the other Leopard kill, she had pulled the kill higher into the tree but was nowhere to be seen. The rest of the night was fairly quiet. We did almost get run over by a Mother and Calf Elephant on our drive way, I think both of us got just as much of a fright.
It didn’t matter that the rest of the night was quiet as nothing could beat the hour and half spent with the cubs. | | | | | Date: | 20 September 2007 06:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Morning Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | To see 200-300 Crown Cranes flying into the wet land area near the salt pan in the morning is a spectacular sight. We arrived there a little early, so wandered around looking at birds of prey, Reed Buck etc., then we came across a Black Headed Heron having difficulty swallowing something, we could see something furry and two legs hanging from the Herons mouth. The Heron dropped it, picked it up and tried again, it was a young Scrub Hare. It was trying to swallow the Hare head first, but by the time it got to the bottom end the Hare was too big.
It did manage to swallow the whole Hare after half an hour, but I’m sure there was some serious indigestion afterwards.
By the time this was finished the Cranes had started to fly in, in big numbers. The cameras behind me sounded like world war three had just started.
After all this action, tea was called for. Heading to the Wafwa all was a little quiet, through Croc bridge onto the Wafwa island we could see large numbers of Vultures circling. There were lots of Vultures everywhere, so it was a bit of a gamble as to which way to go. That way. I said, sounding positive about the direction. Fortunately for me we came across a Leopard kill within 2mins, the Leopard was not in the tree but lying in the shade a 100m away. She walked back to the kill, climbed the tree jumped down again and headed towards the water for a drink. We watched her for approx. an hour then drove home in time for lunch and a cold, cold beer. I only drank water of cause. | | | | | Date: | 17 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | Headed out for slow gentle drive with the intention of coming back early, we started with five Giraffe which turned into thirteen within half a km of entering the park. Along to the Carmine colony where we stopped to watch some Baboons playing and Hippo in the river. The young Baboons were being brave and not so brave with us, running toward us, bobbing and weaving then running away. We were about to move on to get a better look at the Carmines, when a Leopard called in the bushes behind, turning the car around quickly was a bit of a mission as we were surrounded by bushes and the rivers edge. Eventually getting back to where the Leopard called we couldn’t see a thing, she was hiding. We waited for 10-15 min hoping she may call again, but nothing. We decided to go back to the Carmine colony have sundowners and come and find her after dark.
She lead us a merry chase around the rough ground until we got close to the road again, then she lay down and posed for us.
This is the time of year we start to see lots of Porcupine, looking for newly dropped sausage tree flowers, buds and fruit from the Garcinia Livingstonei, a small sweet orange coloured fruit.
A couple of Porcupine, 4 Bushy Tailed Mongoose, Genet, Civet and an Elephant family blocking the road into camp rounded the evening off.
| | | | | Date: | 17 September 2007 06:00 | | Guide: | Bryan Jackson | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | We had a great walk this morning, crossing the river in our canoes the river had dropped a fair amount since the last time I had crossed, so there was some pushing involved until we got to deep water, thinking of crocs the whole time. Feet dry, and shoes on, off we set. Headed down to where the Pels Fishing Owls are often seen. We flushed two from the trees. Through the long grass heading for the Wafwa we could see the backs of a herd of Buffalo, watching them we heard Lion roaring, it sounded quite far but headed in that direction anyway. After about a 100m Puku started calling close by, then we saw Vultures in the trees ahead. After a short talk about what to do if a Lion charges, off we go. Vultures flying off the ground in large numbers, we sneak in to see a Buffalo carcass totally striped. It must have been killed that night as it was still fresh. No Lions around.
I guessed that the Lion may be thirsty so we headed for a small pool of water close by and in the direction of their calls. We had almost given up and were headed for shade and a cup of tea, when Isaac (the scout) said “lion” there in front, was one lion looking at us, standing under the same shade tree we were going to stop for tea, we moved around to get a better view and another one appeared and another and another until 13 in total stood looking at us, one growled and the rest moved off to the opposite bank of the small dry river, sat down in the shade of a winter thorn tree and watched us.
We decided we would still have tea and watch the Lions watch us. They eventually moved into thicker bush, leaving us to finish our tea and cake. Not many people get to chase Lion off from their tea spot.
Everything was a bit of an anti climax after the lion. We did see more Buffalo, Kudu and Elephant on the way back to camp.
| | | | | Date: | 16 September 2007 05:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 16 September.
A single woolly necked stork on the Mwaleshi was a welcome surprise first thing in the morning. We then followed eland tracks, but managed to come across three lions lying on the river bank looking at a huge herd of buffalo crossing the river.
Impala, wildebeest, zebra, warthog and the herd of buffalo made for an interesting picture as they were all visible in one shot. We then encountered another group of lions on the other side of the buffalo also planning their supper for the evening. It consisted of two big males and lionesses enjoying the shade of a big Winter thorn tree.
In the afternoon we decided to go to the place where we saw the lions and buffalo to see if anything had happened yet. The buffalo were crossing into the opposite direction and the lions were still there, but just watching. Unfortunately darkness started to fall and we had to return to camp.
17 September
Morning walk downstream where we followed fresh buffalo tracks with lion tracks superimposed on top of them. It was all very exciting as we could hear the buffalo in the tall grass in front of us and knew that the lions must be near them, trying to find an opportunity to bring one down. But it eventually became too thick and we skirted around the buffalo to view them where they would come down to drink on the Mwaleshi, hoping that we might also see the lions, but it was not to be.
During tea we then saw a group of hyenas feeding on something and found that it was a hippo carcass. It was probably the injured hippo that we had seen a couple of days before that had succumbed to its wounds. Two Lappet-faced vultures were also present.
During afternoon drive to the Luangwa River we saw four kudus on the way and Bohm’s spinetail flying over the river.
18 September
A morning walk up stream to Matumi ox-bow lagoon. Wildebeest, four big kudu bulls and buffalo viewed from our tea stop.
Pm walk down stream where we found a very big herd of buffalo drinking from the Mwaleshi river.
19 September
During a trip to the falls, we came across a Gymnogene feeding on a snake and then also saw a black necked spitting cobra on the way back.
20 September
An afternoon walk along the Mwaleshi where we came across three different groups of elephants. A lone Hyena was also seen cooling down in the Mwaleshi River.
21 September
An early morning walk along the Mwaleshi River was rewarded by a very good Pel’s fishing owl sighting in a big Mopane tree close to the croc pool. We suspected that it must have been fishing in the pool as it was still keeping a good water level and teeming with Bream and Barbell.
On the way back we also spotted a group of lionesses on the river bank with their cubs and whilst watching, a group of Blue cheeked bee-eaters alerted us to their presence by calling overhead.
An afternoon walk downstream had us enjoy the sight of a group of elephants dust bathing as the sun was setting, illuminating the dust and their white ivory.
| | | | | Date: | 15 September 2007 06:00 | | Guide: | Stephen Banda | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Crocodile River Camp | | Blog: | We left Tafika camp for Crocodile camp in the morning. We crossed the river and walked along the edge. There were lots of animals like puku, impala, giraffe, kudu and baboon. After about two hours we stopped at a lagoon for tea. While having tea there was an alarm call from the baboons. We went to check but there was nothing special. Getting close to camp a big mail kudu appeared from the bush with beautiful horns, stood and looked at us for a while. Then we got to camp at 1130 hours. At camp we saw some elephants, kudu, waterbuck and baboons all walking in front across the camp. The same elephants went to the lagoon for the mud bath and they came back walked pass the camp about 50 meters from where sitenge. At night lions were roaring not far from camp, hyenas were also heard calling that same night. In the morning at breakfast we still hear lion roaring behind the lagoon, and we knew exactly where he was. My guests wanted to see the lions so we started off walking towards them. Luckily he was there but shy for few minutes and he walked slowly on the other side of the river looking at the buffalos about 100 meters away from him. After two nights at Crocodile we left for Chikoko camp. On the way we saw a leopard for few minutes before he disappeared in to bush. While at Chikoko we saw lots of waterbucks, puku, elephants, and beautiful male kudu coming down to drink water in Chikoko River late afternoon. The next morning I decided to go to kakonkho lagoon a good place for eland, giraffe, buffalo, elephants, zebras and crocodiles. We finished our two nights and as we were walking back to Crocodile camp, about 40 minutes from Chikoko camp the scout by the name Batwell heard the impala shouting and he talked to me then we went to check a leopard was there just caught a puku and still holding on its neck. Arriving at the next camp filing hot and thirsty sat down around the bar for drinks. The staff at camp told us that they saw a python in one of the Aardvark hole. So we went to see it the same afternoon, but the next day he was gone only found its droppings. | | | | | Date: | 12 September 2007 16:00 | | Guide: | Gerard Fagan | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | There was a definate stillness in the air this afternoon and although we saw a fair amount of game, the surroundings just seemed really quiet. While we watched elephants by the river and buffalos browsing on the Caper bushes, we all often commented on the lack of sounds around us. Even as the sun went down and the predators started coming out there was nothing. No alarm calls, no grunting, barking or roaring. It all changed so quickly as it does in the wild. We had stopped to look at another Gennet and not far behind us the roar of a male lion shattered the silence. We quickly back-tracked in search of the feline with no luck and then circled back to where we were. As we got back to where we first heard him, he casually trotted across the road and although he was a bit shy we all got some fantastic views of him. He was a fairly young male with a small blondish mane and hadn't yet aquired many of the scars that all males will eventually get. It was the first time for me to see him along the river and it's pretty exciting to have some new blood around. Shortly after seeing the lion we bumped into the Chimbwe leopard again and she really is giving us some great viewing at the moment. Another great predator evening in the Valley. | | | | | Date: | 12 September 2007 12:00 | | Guide: | Gerard Fagan | | Outing: | Morning Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | Today was a wonderful cool morning for this time of year and extremely smokey and hazey which created some amazing scenery through the Mopan forests. As the haze lifted with the heat we started seeing some wonderful birds like the the Tawny Eagles, Crowned Cranes and Carmine Bee-eaters in the back country. Just before the wafwa we bumped into a nice group of buffalo grazing on the Mtanda Plain and then a nice group of Giraffe on the Island. It always amazes me how curious they will become if you just sit for a while and observe them. We ended the drive with some entertaining behaviour from a young elephant who was rolling around on his back just next to the road. | | | | | Date: | 10 September 2007 05:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 10 September
On the morning walk upstream, we came across Cookson’s wildebeest, zebra and elephants. We also found a single Lappet-faced vulture still present at the buffalo kill. Crocodile tracks and porcupine tracks were leading to the carcass which indicated that there must have been some unusual guests at the buffalo buffet!
Afternoon drive to the Luangwa River where we found big numbers of hippos.
11 September
Morning drive to Delia lagoon. On the way we encountered Kudus, Zebra and elephants and then also had beautiful views of three different groups of elephants coming to drink at the lagoon. On the way back, whilst crossing the river in front of camp a yellow billed kite snatched a long tailed starling while it was bathing in the river.
During the afternoon walk we viewed zebra coming to drink at the lagoon behind camp. One of the mares had a terrible gash across her back and an open wound across her buttocks that must have been a failed lion attack.
12 September
A morning walk upstream produced different raptors. First a Walberg’s eagle, and then three giant eagle owls flying out of a Muchenga tree.
The female hyena that has been spotted around the same area in the past with swollen teats, was seen taking some of the remains of the buffalo carcass into the bush where we assume she must have a den with young cubs. A mature Lappet-faced vulture was also present.
13 September
Am walk down to the Mwaleshi/Luangwa confluence. An injured hippo was spotted by Special coming out of the Mwaleshi. On the way we came across three lions lying on the opposite bank checking us out. They consisted of two males and a young lioness. We also heard European bee eaters which were the first of the season for me.
In the afternoon we took a drive out to Fish eagle lagoon where we found many barbell fish swimming in liquid mud, just awaiting their death, either swift by beak and talon, or long and suffocating in mud by the gallon.
14 September
Lappet-faced vulture observed at buffalo kill during the morning walk. The four male kudus that we came across on previous occasions appeared out of the bush again to come and drink from the new oxbow lagoon on the Mwaleshi River.
Pm walk to lagoon behind camp where we observed the first Blue cheeked bee eaters of the season. During sundowners back at camp, the resident elephant bull decided to join and gave us a good view of his bulk while standing next to the unoccupied game drive vehicle.
15 September
During the drive out to the falls, a big male leopard dashed out of the long grass and ran in the road in front of the vehicle for a couple of metres before it leapt back into the grass and as only leopard can do, melted away from sight…We also saw the first baby warthogs of the season during the drive.
Plum coloured starlings, racket tailed rollers and trumpeter hornbills were seen on the walk to the falls that kept the bird tally going.
| | | | | Date: | 10 September 2007 05:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Viewing from Camp | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | 9 September
Morning walk to Tuwidi lagoon led to the discovery of a spring close to Kassakuma stream. Some warthog and Impala were present and a young African Hawk eagle was terrorising a group of guinneafowl. We also saw warthog, impala and Cookson’s wildebeest come to drink at Tuwidi lagoon during tea.
The pm walk took us to the lagoon behind camp where we saw two young warthogs sparring in the mud and then also found a bull elephant feeding under a tree close to camp where we had to make a detour to go around him.
| | | | | Date: | 10 September 2007 00:00 | | Guide: | John Coppinger | | Outing: | Night Drive | | Camp: | Tafika Camp | | Blog: | I'm delighted at the opportunity to take out a drive, having been office/workshop bound for some while. I have just Audrey and Russell on board with me - avid photographers with plenty of kit - and within 5 mins Audrey has relegated Russell to the back seat! I had seen 2 lovely male kudus by the lagoon behind my house a little earlier and set off for there immediately. The Tafika peninsula is heaving with game at present. It is one of the few areas in the riverine area that did not flood, so the kasense covered areas are thick with elephants. I know of no other place to contain so many bushbuck and within 10 mins of starting we are already confused as to whether it is 13 or 14 that we have already counted, so we give up the exercise. I have never seen kudu on our peninsula before and they are goggle eyed at the abundance of African Mahogany trees, laden with flowers - all neatly trimmed underneath with bushbuck browse lines. They are incredibly tolerant of our nearby presence, whilst their tongues dart out and stuff flowers and juicy leaves into their mouths at a rapid rate. I sit back and enjoy the clicking of cameras from behind. A family of elephant approach and a young cow decides to chase the kudu away, darting between the bushes and concertedly seeing them off. No matter, as there are ever more Trichelias and as soon as the unreasonable ele gives up her chase they settle down to feeding again and we are once again able to position oursleves within good 'shooting distance'. We eventually leave them and soon come across a troop of baboons scratching in the couch grass for roots and tubers. There is lovely backlighting and the Luangwa river in the background so we enjoy another session of camera clicking.
We almost make it to the main road when we stop to look at another large group of elephant and the baboons start barking back in the direction of camp. We decide to go back to investigate and find them in a sausage tree, barking and looking intently towards the west. I groan inwardly as I know it is a really bumpy area but we are now committed and so off we bounce across the difficult terrain. There is a group of trees and I suspect a leopard could be in there, but no luck. We drive about a bit more and then the leopard calls nearby, giving away its position. We home in on it and spend well over an hour with it, a dark young female who we know well, being harrassed by tsetse flies. She snaps regularly, flicks her tail, gets up and walks a short distance and then flops down again. It is not yet dark and she is very tolerant of us. We see her calling several times - perhaps she's on heat and looking for a boyfriend or else missing her mother. Eventually she gives us the slip in some thickets and we head for the river bank for our sundowners, which we drink in almost complete darkness and in the presence of a family of elephants. We haven't even managed to get off our property and there is no point in going into the Park at this late hour so I do a circuit up to the main road and back. We have great views of bushbaby, porcupine and marsh mongoose. Proof once again, that there is really no need to go into the Park to see it all. | | | | | Date: | 07 September 2007 06:00 | | Guide: | Ernst Jacobs | | Outing: | Morning Walk | | Camp: | Mwaleshi Camp | | Blog: | Here is the latest from Ernst.
28 August
Morning walk to Fish Eagle lagoon. At the lagoon we encountered a group of wildebeest as we arrived, but they left as we approached. We were then treated to warthog entertaining us with their antics in the mud. Using their snouts they would toss up the mud over their back’s then stretch out their legs and crawl through the black mud. A lone Large Grey mongoose also came for a drink but was alarmed at our presence and moved off in a flash.
29 August
The first walk of the season to Luangwa Mufwa lagoon next to the Luangwa River.
The pleasant, park-like surroundings of the Natal Mahoganies lent a suitable back ground to the beautiful group of male kudus that we saw on the way to the ox bow lagoon with their graceful horns spiralled in amongst the under growth. A group of females were also spotted across the river which indicated that we were in prime Kudu habitat. A group of four waterbuck and numbers of impala were also present at the lagoon. Whist having tea a herd of 5 elephants came down to drink and cavort in the mud, cooling their bulk in the black mire.
During the afternoon walk the scout saw a Spotted hyena running through the undergrowth, but we were not quick enough to track him with binoculars so studied the fresh tracks instead.
30 August
A morning walk, starting across river from camp had us come across a leopard kill up a tree. It was a mature bush buck male and just the skull and spinal cord remained. We also sighted six elephants coming down to Sassu lagoon and a group of twenty five wildebeest that we tracked along a game path and eventually found them in a clearing, giving us a wonderful view and photo opportunity. We also saw good raptors on the way back to camp including a Martial eagle and two Africa Hawk eagles circling in a thermal.
3 September
While following buffalo tracks, we came across drag marks with leopard tracks all around it. We tried to follow where it went to, but it disappeared into thick scrub and we were not able to locate the kill. We tracked down the buffalo, seventeen bulls, and found them resting under an acacia tree. During tea, whilst watching the buffalo, a group of six elephant including some young calves, appeared on the river bank where we had a clear view of them feeding.
In the afternoon we took a drive to the “leopard tree”. On the way, we spotted a lot of vultures landing in trees close to the road and decided to investigate on foot. We found 8 lions sleeping in the shade of a small shrub. They were quite full and lazy but did move off when they saw us, not too far, to watch us from under a tree.
4 September
During the morning walk we went to an area behind camp where eland have been spotted earlier in the season. No eland were found, but we did find four elephants coming to drink from “hamerkop lagoon”.
On the afternoon walk we came across a male lion lying on a sand spit in the Mwaleshi river. On the return to camp we then spotted a second male lion who did not see us at first and we did have a beautiful clear view of him in the full sun light about 20 meters away. Unfortunately he then got our scent and sped off with a grunt in the opposite direction. We also found a lone hippo in the croc pool which should be a hazard to look out for later in the season when the water level is lower.
5 September
Day trip to Hippo pool. On the way we came across a large male kudu with a beautiful set of spiral horns. At the pool we counted approximately 52 hippos in the pool. We also saw a Dark Chanting goshawk swallowing a whole snake. Seemed to be an olive grass snake of a reasonable size.
On the drive back we came across a single Hyena who was being plagued by a squadron of Tsetse flies. Using his paws to slap at his face and occasionally snapping at the invisible enemy it was quite comical to watch. Just before we got to camp we also saw the resident lion pride of ten made up of four lionesses, five eight month of old | | | |
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